Exposing the Dark Side of the Skin-Lightening Industry

Exposing the Dark Side of The Skin-Lightening Industry
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Exposing the Dark Side of The Skin-Lightening Industry
Minnesota Department of Health is warning consumers to steer clear from skin-lightening products (SLPs). Their recent investigation on SLPs revealed dangerously high concentrations of unlisted ingredients that can harm users' health.
Skin lightening refers to the practice of lightening complexion by reducing the skin's natural pigments. Dermatologists prescribe patients products with low concentrations of active ingredients to treat certain pigmentary conditions and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Due to potential adverse complications, many countries either banned or strictly regulated these ingredients.
Skin colour has long been the social-economic benchmark in many countries, predominantly in Asia-Pacific, where individuals often affiliate lighter complexions with attractiveness and more career opportunities. In a survey of 667 participants, the most common reported reason for using SLPs was to appear lighter, followed by to appear more attractive, regular skincare products, social influences, and others (Figure 1). Figure 1: Summary of The Reasons For Using SLPs from a survey of 667 participants. Source: Frontier
This growing demand created the lucrative business of SLPs, which was valued at US$8.8 billion in 2020.
Not surprisingly, most toxic SLPs remain accessible in local markets and promote on social media platforms. Some go undercover by omitting harmful ingredients or using counterfeit labels.
Hydroquinone, a potent SL agent for hyperpigmentation treatments, causes permanent blue-black facial discoloration (Figure 2) or skin thinning with high-dosage applications, said Dr. Desai, a board-certified dermatologist at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center.
Figure 2: Discoloration from long-term usage of hydroquinone-containing products. Source: Wikimedia
UK-based optometrists recently diagnosed three patients with corneal degeneration. This condition leads to a loss of vision over time, most likely from using hydroquinone-containing products for years.
Corticosteroid, the most popular topical steroid for skin inflammation conditions, is also a potent bleaching agent. Steroid-dependent reactions (SDR) are the tell-tale signs of chronic misuse of corticosteroids over an extended period (Figure 3). Rashes, skin sensitivity to sunlight, and infections occur when SDR patients withdraw from topical steroids.
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Figure 3: Steroid-Dependent Reactions. Source: Wikimedia
Mercury, another dominating ingredient in many unregulated SLPs, inhibits skin pigmentation production to reveal a lighter complexion. The well-documented report from the Pan American Health Organization list of associated risks from mercury poisoning does not look so pretty.
Risks from prolonged exposure to mercury ranges from multiple major organ failures to psychological issues such as psychosis, depression, anxiety, and early-childhood development issues.
Moreover, determining factors when assessing a patient's health on the severity of mercury exposure include the product's concentration, perio...