"Eating the Hyphen" by Lily Wong

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Food and identity in Lily Wong’s Eating the hyphen
Interpretations of the food writing cannot be separated from one’s experience and choice in eating specific foods. Dumplings are a form of food with thick dough in a bulbous form that can be cooked plain or have meat inside. Wong explains the preparation of Chinese dumplings (jiaozi), which she considers more authentic than those with thin dough, and contrasts this with the Japanese version. Wong also provides a step-by step guide to her experience eating Chinese dumplings. The main purpose of the article is to highlight Lily Wong’s eating of the Chinese dumplings in a unique way as a hyphen to her Chinese and American identity. Wong emphasizes this by pointing out what she believes is the most authentic form of Chinese dumplings, maintaining her eating experience that is similar to other Americans. Lily Wong uses her eating experience to reflect on the interaction between food and identity as an American of Chinese descent, and assert she is a ‘real’ American who accepts her heritage.
In her opening statement Wong states ‘Fork? Check. knife? check. Chopsticks? Check’ and mentions use of ketchup when eating dumplings (Wong 40). This looks peculiar when the author then goes on to mention Chinese dumpling as part of her culture. Clearly, Wong desires to go on eating Chinese cuisines while exhibiting American mannerism while eating by using folks and knives, but also incorporating chopsticks. In navigating her identity, Wong is concerned with maintaining her identity as a Chinese-American but hybridization is also common. This is a firsthand account of eating dumplings, and Wong shares her identity through her eating experience as she tries to maintain authenticity as a Chinese-American.
Wong explores the peculiarities of Chinese culture through food rather than memory, and although there is a diversity of Chinese cuisines, the Chinese dumplings is a variety that can be adapted depending on the settings. The dumplings are not a seasonal food, but rather one which can be consumed any time. Wong’s account of what she considered the best way to prepare the dumplings emphasizes her liking for the food. This includes description of the outer layers, to the extent that one can judge the quality of the dumplings by their skin. Additionally, Wong indicates her preference for the best way to cook the dumplings and maintain authenticity of the food as preferred by Chinese Americans.
Wong explores one particular eating experience, and it is not only about the food, but what is considered authentic food among Chinese Americans. The older generation...